Floating Brake
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Floating Brake
How do you skim floating discs off a motorbike?
I am wondering how to skim a floating brake disc off a motorbike. Because the disc has the ability to float and therefore centralise itself within the brake caliper, will the disc not just push away from the tool?
I want to make a mandrel to accept the disc mount spider thingy for my lathe but need to know if it is possible to face them off this way before I do so.
Thanks in advance.
brake disc's are hard & tough. they will quickly dull even carbide tool bits.
you can bolt them to a face plate & refinish them with a tool post grinder if they arent warped very much but dont take more than about .020 (1/2 mm)from each side or they will probably be below tolerance on thickness.
if you try it with a carbide tool, grind & set the tool with about the same sharp hook & relief you would use for cutting aluminum & use plenty of coolant.
FLOATING BRAKE HUB FROM JEX MANUFACTURING, INC
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EBC Pro-Lite Floating Rotor MD2092
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DescriptionThe worlds only complete line of direct bolt-on brake discs made in EBCs UK manufacturing plant using:Billet-steel rotor rings that deliver 18% more stopping power than stainless steel equivalentsForged alloy center hubs offering lightest weightSturdy riveted construction compared to the use of circlipsEBC Pro-Lite floating rotors are complete bolt-on and go rotor assemblies made with forged aluminum center hubs, high friction billet steel rotor rings and sturdy riveted construction... |
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EBC Pro-Lite Floating Rotor MD1127
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DescriptionThe worlds only complete line of direct bolt-on brake discs made in EBCs UK manufacturing plant using:Billet-steel rotor rings that deliver 18% more stopping power than stainless steel equivalentsForged alloy center hubs offering lightest weightSturdy riveted construction compared to the use of circlipsEBC Pro-Lite floating rotors are complete bolt-on and go rotor assemblies made with forged aluminum center hubs, high friction billet steel rotor rings and sturdy riveted construction... |
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EBC Pro-Lite Floating Rotor MD2068
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DescriptionThe worlds only complete line of direct bolt-on brake discs made in EBCs UK manufacturing plant using:Billet-steel rotor rings that deliver 18% more stopping power than stainless steel equivalentsForged alloy center hubs offering lightest weightSturdy riveted construction compared to the use of circlipsEBC Pro-Lite floating rotors are complete bolt-on and go rotor assemblies made with forged aluminum center hubs, high friction billet steel rotor rings and sturdy riveted construction... |
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Davis & Sanford PSGAIRLIFT60 60 Pound Capacity Pedestal Airlift without Head
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DescriptionThis multi purpose tripod is designed for heavy use on a daily basis and works well for teleprompters and studio cameras. A heavy broad steel base and quiet 4" deluxe wheels with ball bearings assure smooth and stable movement without tipping... |
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Davis & Sanford PSGAIRLIFT25 25 Pound Capacity Pedestal Airlift without Head
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DescriptionThis multi purpose tripod is designed for heavy use on a daily basis and is perfect for teleprompters and studio cameras. A heavy broad steel base and quiet 4" deluxe wheels with ball bearings assure smooth and stable movement without tipping... |
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15 Great Tunes Hand-Picked By Word (Issue 40)
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DescriptionAUDIO CD! British Import Pressing! Now Hear This: 15 Great Tunes Hand-Picked By Word! (Issue 40 CD) Limited Edition Compilation CD Only Available For A Short Time In June, 2006 To Readers Of 'The Word' Magazine... |
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Hope 140mm lightweight rotor, floating 76g
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DescriptionThe Hope 2 Piece Rotors is constructed with an aluminum carrier that reduces weight.Lighter designAllow for smoother brakingItem SpecificationsHub/Brake Compatibility6-Bolt DiscRotor Size140mm |
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Hope 2-piece 183mm rotor
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DescriptionThe Hope 2 Piece Rotors is constructed with an aluminum carrier that reduces weight.Lighter designAllow for smoother brakingItem SpecificationsHub/Brake Compatibility6-Bolt DiscRotor Size183mm |
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Hope 160mm Lightweight Rotor Floating
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DescriptionThe Hope 2 piece disk brake rotor is constructed with an aluminum carrier that reduces weight and allows for smother braking.Hub/Brake Compatibility: 6-BoltDisc Rotor Size: 160mm |
1971 DODGE DART. Is the float in the carb. brass,or plastic?can gas get inside?do I have to replace points?
I have replaced the spark plugs on my 1971 DODGE DART.how about the plug wires,cap and rotor,and points?Is it hard to rebuild the carb?Does a carb. kit cost alot?Can my float/needel and seat stick and flood the crankcase?Is it possible to have to small of a fuel fillter installed and the fuel pump pumping more fuel than needed ond than damage the gaskets of the carb?There is a few wet spots on the sides of my carb.why is this?When replacing the front brakes,is it neccessary to bleed the brakes?How do I check to see if my gas gauge in the dash is broken or if the gauge in the tank is?One more thing,the same car my 1971 DODGE DART,It turns further one way,and not as far in the other,what could cause this? THANK YOU and MERRY CRISTMAS TO ALL. PEACE!
a carb kit is about 20$ and the rebuild is not that hard to do.
start by identifying the exact model/year of your carb. then put it in a parts cleaner or soak it in a bucket of parts cleaner while you find a rebuild kit.
then find a clean quiet place to work and take your time, and when the carb is rebuilt, you wil have gained a wealth of knowledge.
if your float is sticking you can try cleaning it with some carb cleaner, but i think your idea of a carb rebuild is a good one. then you'll know all about carbs, and you'll be secure knowing your carb is 100%
just make sure you get the correct kit. especially those 70's carbs, emissions rules kept changing, and carbs had to change from year to year. so you need to have the exact carb kit iwth the right gaskets and seals for whatever emissions set-up was used on your model year. just take your time you won't have any trouble
if the fuel pump is pumping too much fuel, get a fuel pressure regulator, and set it to 6-7 psi as required by your carb and engine's fuel needs. but having a working float should clear up that problem. remember that a new float is not included in most carb rebuild kits, so buy that as well.
if your car's not turning left or right well, check for collision damage in the front end. maybe something's blocking the wheel on th side it doesn't want to turn. start the car and have a buddy turn the wheel while you look under the hood to see what's going on and what's holding up the show.
you don't need to bleed the brakes if you're just changing the pads. you only need to bleed them if you open up the hydraulic system to change the fluid and allow air to enter there. but if you don't disconnect the brake cylinders from the lines, then there's no air getting in there. it just depends on you, whether you think the old fluid needs to be replaced
